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'The earliest recipe of the Bûche de Noël shows up in Pierre Lacam’s 1898 Le memorial historique et géographique de la pâtisserie. The earliest mention however is a couple of years earlier in Alfred Suzanne’s 1894 La cuisine anglaise et la pâtisserie where he notes in passing that it is (was?) the specialty of a certain Ozanne, presumably his friend Achille Ozanne (1846-1898). Of course we have no idea of what this looked like. An article in the French newspaper Figaro adds an interesting tidbit (see Pierre Leonforte, “La bûche de Noël : une histoire en dents de scie,” Figaro, 17 December 2000): according to Stéphane Bonnat, of chocolatier Félix Bonnat her great grandfather’s recipe collection from 1884 contains a recipe for a roll cake make with chocolate ganache. Admittedly she makes no claim to this being the first bûche de Noël.
'One of the famous stories about this French dessert is associated with Napoleon Bonaparte of France. He issued a proclamation, as per which, the people of Paris were ordered to close the chimneys of their houses, during winters. It was thought that entry of cold air into the houses was causing spread of illnesses and the proclamation was aimed at prevention of such diseases. It was during this time that Buche de Noel or yule log cake was invented in Paris. As use of hearths was prohibited, they needed some sort of traditional symbol that can be enjoyed with family and friends during the festive season that falls in winter. Thus, this cake became a symbolic substitution around which the family could gather for storytelling and other holiday activities.
'It makes sense that the cake, like so many other Christmas traditions (think Santa, decorated Christmas trees, Christmas cards, etc) dates to the Victorian era, to a time of genteel, bourgeois domesticity. In France, in particular, a certain romantic image of peasant traditions had become part of the story the French told themselves about themselves and while the average Parisian bourgeois could hardly be expected to hoist logs into their 4th floor apartment, they could at least show solidarity for their country cousins by picking up a more manageable bûche at the local pâtisserie. That the result was a little kitsch fit the middle class sensibility too.'-- collaged
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This year's candidates
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Trianon Palace Versailles
Designer: Eddie Benghanem
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Composition : Fourré de mousse au chocolat, crème à la vanille et compote de poire, le tout est délicatement posé sur une tablette de chocolat praliné-nougatine…
Infos pratiques : Prix : 120€ pour 10 personnes. Disponible au Trianon Palace Versailles à partir du 10 décembre.
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Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme
Designer: Pier-Marie le Moigno
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Composition : Véritable œuvre d’art, « Let it Snow… » est composé d’une mousse caramel à la fleur de sel, d’une pâte de fruits au citron vert et d’un biscuit dacquoise cuit à la vapeur de noix de coco …
Infos pratiques : Gâteau de Noël individuel Let it Snow : 18€. Disponible à partir du 25 novembre 2013.
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Hôtel du Prince de Galles
Designer: Yann Couvreur
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Composition : La bûche du Prince de Galles réserve une mousse onctueuse de chocolat au lait, un biscuit croquant et un cœur fondant en nectar de Cazette (une poudre de noisettes torréfiés).
Infos pratiques : Chocolat et cazette – pour 6 à 8 personnes – 90 euros. Dégustation au bar Les Heures, accompagnée d’un chocolat chaud. Du 16 décembre 2013 au 5 janvier 2014 – 30 euros
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Hôtel Shangri-La Paris
Designer: François Perret
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Composition : Crème glacée noisette, cœur de crème glacée vanille aux éclats d’amandes caramélisées.
Infos pratiques : Bûche cadeau 6/8 parts : 11,39€
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Mandarin Oriental Hotel Paris
Designer: ?
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Composition : Base croustillant chocolat noisette, biscuit imbibé de sirop de Chartreuse. Au centre, un crémeux chocolat au lait associé à une mousse chocolat noir légèrement pralinée. Puis, un biscuit aux amandes enrobe la bûche, saupoudrée de quelques pépites de Streusel.
Infos pratiques : Disponible du 16 au 25 décembre 2013, sur réservation 48 h à l’avance au 01 70 98 74 00 au prix de 118 € (6 personnes). Se décline également en format individuel au prix de 18 € sur place et 12 euros à emporter.
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Plaza Athénée et Le Meurice
Designer: Christophe Michalak et Jean-Marie Hiblot
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Composition : crémeux au chocolat des Caraïbes sur lit de croustillant praliné, biscuit à la noix de coco, mousse coco légère et coulis exotique.
Infos pratiques : disponible au Meurice à Paris et à l’hôtel The Dorchester à Londres, en édition limitée.
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Hotel Burgundy
Designer: Stéphane Tranchet
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Composition : Elle se compose d’un biscuit amande et zeste d’orange garni d’une compotée de griottes, de cerises entières amaretti à l’alcool et d’une chantilly au chocolat noir. Enrobée d’un chocolat blanc brillant et d’une poudre d’argent, elle est placée au sein d’un tube de dentelle en chocolat noir laissant apparaître une danse de sapins.
Infos pratiques : disponible au Burgundy Hotel dès le 1er décembre – Bûche de 6/8 personnes : 90 euros.
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Pierre Hermé
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Composition : Pâte à sablé breton, mousse au chocolat blanc et aux zestes de citron vert, biscuit au citron vert imbibé de purée de fruit de la Passion, compote de rhubarbe, compote de fraises crues et cuites.
Infos pratiques : Bûche de Noël 2013 by Pierre Hermé « La Vie est Belle »
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Composition : Biscuit macaron chocolat, biscuit moelleux au chocolat, une mousse et ganache au chocolat Pure Origine Trinidad Domaine Gran Couva.
Infos pratiques : en série limitée du 6 au 31 décembre, 16 personnes et plus : 200 €.
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Fauchon
Designer: ?
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Précieuse gourmandise. Cette bûche est composée d’une mousse de chocolat noir garnie d’une pâte de kumquats au naturel, très peu cuits pour en préserver toute la saveur. Préalablement percés et mélangés avec du sucre cassonade, ils sont ensuite cuits au four puis réduits en purée. On y ajoute à la fin de la recette un zeste de bergamote, pointue en saveur, pour apporter de la fraîcheur. Ce dessert renferme à sa base un biscuit aux brisures de marrons glaçés et de farine de châtaignes torréfiées. Le Trésor des Forêts s’habille d’un velours de chocolat noir et s’accompagne d’une amande d’or qui renferme une purée de Kumquat.
Disponible à partir du 6 décembre. Part individuelle, 15 euros. 4, 6 parts et 8 parts (sur commande à partir du 20 décembre), dès 60 euros.
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A la Mère de Famille
Designer: ?
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Composition : Venezuela 82%, forte puissance aromatique et légère acidité, travaillé en sorbet pour en révéler toute l’intensité.Pérou 70%, chocolat doux aux notes boisées et terreuses, travaillé en glace pour sublimer sa douceur. Madagascar 70%, goût acidulé et notes de fruits rouges, travaillé en parfait pour modérer sa force. Un lit croustillant composé de streusel, d’amandes croquantes, de gianduja et de chocolat noir 68% « signature » complète cette bûche glacée, parfaite démonstration des savoir-faire glacier et chocolatier de la Maison.
Infos pratiques : Bûche « Origines » - 6 à 8 personnes – Prix : 45€.
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Tout en chocolat noir ou au chocolat au lait et chocolat blanc pour le bambou. Dimensions : 15cm de hauteur x 10cm de diamètre – poids : 400g
Prix indicatif : 32€
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Musée d’Orsay
Designer: Andrey Dellos
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Crémeux au caramel beurre salé, compote de poire et notes épicées des fèves Tonka. 150 bûches en édition limitée.
Bûche pour 8 personnes. Prix de vente conseillée: 140€ TTC
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Jean-Paul Hévin
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Composée de biscuit aux amandes, gelée fruit de la passion et poivre de lune, cette pâtisserie est à découvrir au tarif de 56 € pour 6/8 personnes.
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Composée de biscuit chocolat, mousse chocolat amer, crème brulée. A partager pour 4/6 personnes à 39€, ou 6/8 personnes à 51€.
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Fontainebleu
Designer: Frederic Cassel
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Composition : glacée: sablé breton, glace noisette du Piémont et glace pistache de Sicile.
Infos pratiques : 6-8 personnes, 42 €.
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Lenôtre
Designer: l’architecture et illustre jardinier du château de Versailles André Le Nôtre
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Composition : Inspirée par la nature, la recette a été savamment pensée pour unir le travail de ces passionnés du goût. Pour symboliser les strates de la terre fertile une base de biscuit « Succès » aux amandes, surmontée d’une couche de pailleté feuilletine croquant et d’une couche decrémeux onctueux chocolat aux origines de Sao Tomé, Ghana et Tanzanie. En accompagnement, une compotée de tomates et épices, fruit qu’affectionne particulièrement Louis Albert de Broglie et dont il possède une collection unique au monde.
Infos pratiques : Bûche à partager pour 8/10 personnes – Prix : 120.00s € Série limitée du 14 au 24 décembre inclus. À réserver dès le 13 décembre dans toutes les boutiques Lenôtre
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Dalloyau
Designer: Yann Brys
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Composition : Base craquante composée d’un croustillant de macarons et de noisettes grillées, toute mousse au chocolat au lait de Madagascar parfumée aux agrumes, crème de meringue et compotée de bergamote fraîche.
Infos pratiques : Bûche de Noël 2013 by Dalloyau – Du 11 décembre 2013 au 2 janvier 2014. Prix : 110 € la bûche pour 6 personnes
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Café Pouchkine
Designer: Damien Piscioneri
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Composition : Sous cette couche de cadeaux se cache un biscuit au chocolat, surmonté d’une compote de framboise et d’une mousse au chocolat au lait.
Infos pratiques : Bûche « Maskaradka » by Café Pouchkine : Bûche pour 6 personnes au prix de vente conseillée de 115€
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La Maison du Chocolat
Designer: Nicolas Cloiseau
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Composition : composée d’un fin biscuit sacher aux amandes, sabayon et fine gelée au champagne Blanc de Noir, dés de poire Williams rouge des Alpes poêlés et flambés à l’alcool de poire, mousse au chocolat pure Origine Madagascar, cuvés exclusive. Socle de plaque croquante de chocolat. Embouts en chocolat recouverts de feuille d’or. Décor de rennes en chocolat ivoire, pulvérisés de chocolat noir.
Infos pratiques : Disponible du 21 au 24 décembre pour 6/8 personnes : 120 euros.
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Thierry Mulhaupt
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Bûche composée d’un biscuit au chocolat, à la farine de manioc imbibé de jus de papaye au poivre du Ghana, garni d’un crémeux à la mangue et d’une mousse au chocolat Kumango 64%.
Une bûche au caractère rare et surprenant disponible en série limitée à 113 exemplaires dès le 15 décembre. Commande à partir de 1er décembre. 8 personnes, 59 euros.
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Palais de Tokyo
Designer: Pierre Marcolini
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Douceur contemporaine. Créée pour rendre hommage au Palais de Tokyo, cette bûche est composée d’une meringue au café accompagnée d’un croustillant de pistache aux fruits rouges, d’biscuit pain de Gêne aux agrumes, de confiture de marron de saison et d’une mousse légère au café.
150 euros pour 10 parts. Disponible sur commande dans les boutiques Pierre Marcolini.
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La Grande Epicerie
Designer: ?
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La gourmandise n’a pas d’heure. Derrière sa façade en chocolat noir, ce coucou révèle un biscuit amandes noisettes, une ganache noix de pécan, un croustillant noisette, une chiboust et une gelée de poire vanillée.
8/10 personnes. 70 euros.
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Cyril Lignac
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Composition : Crème chocolat blanc caramélisé à la fleur de sel, ganache Gianduja. Couverture velours de chocolat surmonté d’une plaque de chocolat noir aux fruits secs.
Infos pratiques : Disponible en boutique du 13 au 31 décembre 2013. Bûche 8/10 personnes – 70€
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Composition : une ganache vanille Bourbon, d’un crémeux aux marrons confits et d’un biscuit croustillant praliné. Elle est terminée par une coque de chocolat noir recouverte d’un superbe velours rouge.
Infos pratiques : Disponible en boutique du 13 au 31 décembre 2013. Bûche 8/10 personnes – 70€
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Arnaud Delmontel
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Composition : la bûche Rio se compose d’une mousse lait de coco, de dés d’ananas et d’une dacquoise noix de coco. Autrement dit, le soleil des îles en plein hiver.
Infos pratiques : ?
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Beige Alain Ducasse
Designer: Julien Kientzler
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This year’s Bûche de Noël prepared by Head Pâtissier Julien Kientzler is “Le Sac de Soirée”, modeled “Party Bag”. It has both elegance and prettiness covered with the lace in white chocolate setting a symbol of Chanel, Camelia. The body is made with marron cream and vanilla mousse accented with marmalade of citrus fruits.
We request that you place your order early, as only one hundred cakes will be prepared. 58 Euros. Last day to order: Thursday, December 26, 2013. * No additional orders will be taken once the maximum limit has been reached.
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Jeff Überweis
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Composition : Biscuit madeleine au citron et huile d’olive, mousse aux fruits rouges et crémeux framboises.
Infos pratiques : 4/6/8 personnes, prix NC.
*
p.s. Hey. ** MyNeighbourJohnTurtorro, Hi, Neighbor. Thanks about the gig. I was hoping you would dig it. I haven't seen Julia Holter live yet, but I think she's heading over here. And thanks for the porn film congrats. It's not totally a done deal, but it looks good. Well, it will be a highly unusual porn film, that's for sure. Maybe more of a hopefully very cool film that revolves around explicit/hardcore sex than another variation on the usual porn model or something. New Death Grips is amazing, yes! Absolutely. I finally got the Body/Head album yesterday, but I haven't had a chance to spin it yet. Much love back to you, man. Anything else you're hearing that you particularly recommend? ** David Ehrenstein, Ah, yes, organization. So important. Do you love playing with organization? I do. Oh, I would really love to be able to post that chapter here for sure, if you like and don't mind. That would be fantastic! Thanks! ** Tosh Berman, I heard a bit of the Chang/Beatles yesterday, and it sounded super curious. I'll get it. And I'll read your commentary pronto. Everyone, the one, the only Tosh Berman has written out his thoughts on the fascinating project involving The Beatles''White Album' by the artist Rutherford Chang wherein he overlaid the sound of 100 copies of the album playing simultaneously onto a vinyl album, and I highly recommend that you read Tosh's always brilliant wordage here. ** Steevee, No, I haven't seen that book physically, but I know about it. When I was making the KK-d post, I came across at least one and maybe even a few articles/essays that posited his work as feminist. I didn't get the chance to read them carefully, but the argument doesn't seem farfetched to me at all. Those links to your pieces didn't work. Could you repost them? ** Jeffrey Coleman, Hi, Jeff. Yeah, Shit and Shine are terrific. Me too, on hoping to see them live. And, yeah, the Gnaw is very good. That guy's voice is a wonder. Wow, that dream! You have such an incredible memory for your dreams. Mine turn to dust as soon as I open my eyes. Anyway, that was beautiful. I love the curved concrete tunnel ending, as you can imagine. Cool, thanks a lot for the share and the lovely prose. 'The Maimed' by Hermann Ungar: I don't know it. I'll go see what it is. Shit, Joel Lane died? I didn't know that. That's awful. I knew him a bit back when we were both in Serpents Tail's author stable together, and he was a great, sweet guy. Man, that is sad, bad news. Shit. Thanks for letting me know, man. And it's good to see you, Jeff! ** _Black_Acrylic , Hi, Ben. I've been listening that that Oneohtrix Point Never album a ton. I didn't know about the Surgeon remix. That's exciting! Thanks, I'll go get that in my memory banks asap. ** Flit, Thanks for the props, buddy. My pleasure. Oh, that's okay about the post falling apart. I certainly know how that goes. I've got quite the graveyard of prematurely dead posts on my hard drive. But thanks for the links. I'll use them. I'm totally involved in the porn film, in every aspect. My genius friend Zac is directing the film, and I'll be advising him, I guess, if he needs that, although we're of very like-minds. But, yeah, it's Zac's and my project, and we'll be doing pretty much every bit and aspect of it ourselves from start to finish. ** Bill, Thanks, B. Damien Dubrovnik is a project by one of the guys in Var. That Kapoor show was up for a long time, wow! Yeah, it was nice. We got there too late in the day to see the slush falling from that big piece in the atrium, and to see the cannon-blast piece working, but we saw a piece almost exactly like it in Denmark. You have a good Thanksgiving! Are you doing something relative and somehow appropriate? ** Sypha, Demdike Stare do seem like they could be up your alley. Ha, well, you just finished a project, so a little rest is natural. Although I know what you mean. I kind of always want or need to be working on something. The Sypha Nadon album is certainly something. Fingers crossed re: Rebel Satori. And Oscar doing the cover is an inspired choice, of course! ** Bill Porter, Hi. I'm actually going to see Spencer Krug in his Moonface persona play live tonight. Excited! Never seen him live before in any of his incarnations. Oh, man, to have an in-house chiropractor is a dream idea. The schools you applied to seem cool, not to mention spread out all over the place. Of course, the very, very best of luck on the applications being accepted congruently for you both. There is no Thanksgiving here. Not a trace. I think it's the only big American holiday that has no presence here whatsoever. Not a cardboard pilgrim or turkey in even the dustiest corner of any store here or anything. Really nice avoidance, if you ask me. So I'll be seeing Moonface for Thanksgiving, and that should be about it. Enjoy yours! ** Misanthrope, Citizenship would probably be easier, yeah, and I sure would love to hear what you sound like when you speak fluid French. I'll say hi to Yury, sure. He's good. He's scrambling to hopefully finally finish his initial clothing line for his fashion house by January so it can be debuted in that month's big fashion week event. ** Rewritedept, I heard a bit of it. It was cool, interesting, surprising. I haven't listened to 'Abbey Road' in ages, apart from hearing some of its songs inescapably since they're such Beatles calling cards. I think I only really liked 'Come Together' and 'She's So Heavy' on that album, but I don't know. I think my Beatles album pick might be 'Magical Mystery Tour'. Enjoy your feast! ** Thomas Moronic, Thanks, man. That new Tim Hecker is great. Forest Swords are super interesting and confusing and mixed up in this weird, interesting way. I can't remember where I read the Xiu Xiu thing. Maybe it was bullshit rumor mongering stuff. Right, I'm very curious about the Nina Simone covers album. It's simultaneously such a natural and very strange idea. ** gucciCODYprada, Hey! It is you! I knew it! Dude, what up? Big love! It would be seriously awesome to talk to you, duh! Tomorrow morning my time? Cool, I'll be keeping my eyes glued on my phone. Can't wait! ** Okay. So, yeah, Happy Thanksgiving to those of you who would find a relative stranger's wish for holiday-centric happiness to be a positive move. As for me and the blog, we're thinking about Xmas already and deciding what I'm going to treat myself with by eating around then. Probably two or three of those babies up there. Any recommendations? See you tomorrow.